Appreciation or Appropriation?

Culture is rich, incredibly influential and has inspired many for so long, and continues to do so. Though the cultural art of many creators continues to evolve and inspire many others, it has its own form of expression with great significance . However, there comes a point where one must ask: is it appreciation or appropriation? 

The concept of culture appropriation is an issue that continues to reoccur within the fashion industry. At times with the proposal of innovative fashion, insensitive fashion houses resort to the adoption of one's cultural art; which is where the problem lies. There is a difference in appreciation contrary to appropriation. The general concept of borrowing certain elements that appeal to you at a specific time and disregarding the significance and history is the very definition of appropriation. In opposition to that is appreciation, which considers the strive for a sense of understanding of one’s culture. Appreciation introduces the search and effort put forth in learning, and disregarding a personal frame of mind in hopes to be conscious of other traditional art. More times than not, society attempts to strain us for our rich culture but disregard our painful struggles. Speaking from experience, at times I couldn’t help but feel mocked. They’d try to talk and act like us but they treated us with contempt. I remember all the black kids being banned from speaking their native language in school. We’ve been villainized with every step and breath we took. I felt it was deplorable but there wasn’t much I could do but to feel deeply disturbed. I’m not sure how to put it into words in order to sincerely mirror the disturbance I felt but I’m going to try. Firstly, let there be no mistake: black culture is the blueprint. Countless fashion trends and subcultures have followed in our footsteps. Similar to the sense that music is an incredibly influential market to fashion, so is the essence of black culture. However, the difference lies in the idea that our culture is oftentimes mocked, appropriated and stolen. For example, the art of many Black women is often ridiculed for wearing long nails and colourful hair, but when a Kardashian wears it for instance then many consider it to be respectable and trendy. This is where the idea of appreciation is questioned by the offensive statement of appropriation. Fashion houses such as Prada, Comme des Garçon, Gucci and Christian Dior have been under the light of criticism. With their idea of “avant-garde” comes the indirect ridicule of African culture. To demonstrate, Comme des Garçon represents appropriation in it’s finest form. The house continues to gather references and inspiration from African culture, but it’s lack of diversity in portraying African models just amplifies the voice of the ill intent. In Comme des Garçons Men’s fall/winter 2020 collection there was a use of traditional cornrows with a cast of the white majority. Let this idea sink: The house employed a white majority cast portraying the cultural significance of black art. Like the sun hidden behind the moon, we fuel fashion; we innovate the world. There are countless fashion trends that have been popularized by black culture. To demonstrate: the rise of logomania. Many suggest that the iconic concept came high in favour with the start of the Louis Vuitton and Gucci logo. When one hears logomania, Dapper Dan may be a name that is often  mentioned. Dapper Dan was one of the founders of street wear. He started off in his boutique in Harlem, and would illegally screen print logos of the brands over leather. Dapper Dan is an incredibly innovative individual, and would even innovate the brand's fashion in ways that even the original brand did not think of. His designs were not only limited to clothing but were also extended to curtains, car interiors and even furniture covers. The hip-hop community was high in favour of Dapper Dan’s designs and demanded more product. This was the birth of luxury street fashion. 

Beyond Black art, we must strive to have an understanding of other cultures, and to gain a sense of cultural literacy to further appreciate the weight of others' longstanding history. The significance of traditional art is not a mere accessory and it is certainly not up for rent.

Asiya’s List of 10 Artists to Support:

● Nol Collective (fashion brand based in Ramallah, Palestine) 

● SIKA (Ghana, website: sikadesigns.co.uk) 

● Meera Adnan (RTW fashion brand based in Gaza, Palestine)

 ● House of Aama (website: houseofaama.com) 

● Hanna Hamam (Palestinian owned) 

● JeBlanc (website: jeblanc.com) 

● Andrea Iyamah (Nigerian owned) 

● Asata Maisé (black owned & Sustainable) 

● Notte Jewelry (Chinese-American) 

● Claudia Li (website: claudia-li.com)

Cover image credit: Complex Images.